Volunteer: Katharine Clark
Contributions from Katharine Clark
Suddenly, the music began to blare. I turned to Katia, my counterpart, for an explanation. “All the mehani (taverns) turn into discos at midnight.” My glass of rakia (strong Bulgarian brandy) started teetering precariously close to the edge of our table as my fellow diners leapt to their feet and onto chairs, booths and, particularly impressive in stilettos, bar stools. Welcome to Bansko, Bulgaria. As the pre-recorded music subsided, a group of Roma musicians took command of the rest...